|
08.21.05
The Promise of Fresh Italian Cooking
A Look Behind Nicola’s Kitchen Door
by Suzanne E. Beane, iRhine Contributor
For the past nine years, Nicola's Ristorante of Over-the-Rhine has catered to discriminating customers seeking fine Italian cuisine. From the early days of serving up classics to today's menu of modern fare, Nicola's has become a reliable choice for the business lunch or romantic evening interlude. But as effortless as the Nicola's experience appears to the unassuming patron, well-orchestrated activity is alive just beyond the kitchen door. This month's iRhine story takes a look behind the scenes of one of our favorite Over-the-Rhine establishments.
Today's contemporary culinary offerings at Nicola's were born from back room business decisions as a number of influences converged upon the restaurant in 2004. Fine dining had emerged in Cincinnati as more restaurants such as Jean-Robert de Cavel's lauded trio (Jean-Robert at Pigall's, Jeanro Bistro, Pho Paris) had stepped up to serve high-end clientele. At the same time, Cincinnatians were feeling good again after the recession and riots a few years earlier.
Consumers were once again dancing among the city's offerings, doling disposable income where it was deserved. In fact, a study commissioned by the partnership for Greater Cincinnati showed that Cincinnatians spend 15 percent more than the national average on dining out. "Our customers are well-educated and will spend money on exceptional food," said Maureen Pietoso, Nicola's Operations Manager and wife of Nicola Pietoso, the businesses namesake. "There are a group of people we like to call our 'Foodies' - food lovers who will pay to be fed things that are new to them," said Maureen.
Just as Cincinnati appeared to be raising the bar for fine food, son Cristian Pietoso joined the family business after a yearlong stint at The Savoy in London. He brought with him a Florentine culinary education and an International way of appealing to customers. His promise to the Cincinnati community was and is to "keep it fresh and keep it interesting". Cristian believes that today's consumer will cook the classics at home if they desire the "rich" traditions at all (think lasagna and baked mostacolli). Further, they increasingly seek innovative presentation as well as seasonal and/or organically grown ingredients. These demands aren't universal but characterize the changing face of America's fine dining patron and the type of customer Cristian could seduce.
A "fresh and interesting" philosophy may appear simple enough on its face. But the promise of freshness means a daily reality of delicately balancing purchases with demand, buying small and saleable quantities. Conducting accurate food inventories take great skill and perishable items are what constitutes Nicola's menu - produce, meat and fish.
Just mention the word "fish" and Cristian begins pacing about, waving his hands in frustration, recalling his days in Italy. "Ah the fish in Florence...", he says, "you bring the fish in while it's still flopping about, here you have to work so hard to bring fresh fish to the table. So many things are better here in the States but the fish - ah, it makes me crazy." He goes on about the fish, musing that Americans' preferences for fish is often different than that of Italians. Mahi-Mahi for example is requested here while it's virtually unknown in Italy.
In addition to selling what's fresh and in demand, Nicola's and all restaurateurs must contend with the rapidly rising prices for quality ingredients. Just one year ago, the average cost of one pound of sea bass was eleven dollars. Now sea bass averages about seventeen dollars per pound. There are several reasons for the rising cost of food, general inflation and high oil prices among them. But while consumers feel food costs at the grocery checkout lane, they don't necessarily expect to see price increases on the menu. Many restaurants have absorbed the costs instead of simply passing them along to consumers.
So with all of these challenges, Nicola, Maureen and Cristian (the collective Pietoso family who owns and runs the place), know that they need to "showcase" their efforts so that those who notice such attention to quality and detail - will. Each day Nicola's prints a special menu with purchase and/or preparation dates on all of the specials so patrons know exactly when each item was prepared. Breads, pastries and pastas are made daily in the Nicola's kitchen.
In fact, every day from 3:00 until 10:00 pm, you can find Nicola's "pasta guy" cranking a manual machine, slowly unfurling different weights, widths and colors of hand-made, fresh pasta onto a long, wooden table. The porous nature of the wood removes moisture from the pasta ribbons so that it is quickly dried, cut and served. Sometimes it's served as 'Pasta at the Table' where Cristian brings a pot to the dining room and strains cooked pasta, then dollops certain sauces, vegetables and/or cheeses to present a finished dish. Patrons can watch the magic and immediately enjoy the results.
Nicola's diners can also now graze amongst 10 to 12 Italian and French cheeses served on a wooden cart - fresh buffalo mozzarella, taleggio, parmigiano reggiano and many more. While most Americans order the cheese cart early in the meal, Italians consume cheese prior to or in place of desert. "Our servers will recommend that customers take the cheese later in the meal because we're trying to teach people about Italian courses, but we'll serve it whenever they prefer," says Cristian. The Executive Chef enjoys when patrons will order his tasting menu, another new addition that consists of eight special, recommended courses.
So if you consider dining at Nicola's, expect to see Nicola Pietoso greeting and seating customers almost any evening of the week. And if you're there late enough, you might see Chef Cristian walk through the dining room and head for the bar to enjoy a game of cards at the bar with the regulars. Whatever you do, deeply enjoy the food - and appreciate the love that brought it to the table.
Notable Facts:
- One of America's Top New Restaurants, Zagat Survey 1998
- Cincinnati's Best Pasta Dish, Cincinnati Enquirer
- Rated Excellent by 1999 Mobil Travel Guide
- Best Contemporary Italian 2000 by critics and readers, Cincinnati magazine
--i--
Suzanne E. Beane is Director, Brand Strategy for Metaphor Studio, a creative consultancy in Over-the-Rhine specializing in Community Experience Development through branding, interactive and advertising strategy and implementation.
Photos by Suzanne Beane
About Nicola's
Nicola's is located at the corner of Liberty and Sycamore Streets in Over-the-Rhine. Nicola's, although contemporary and spacious, was once a car barn for incline trolleys in the 19th century. Capturing its historic charm, Nicola's has become one of the most beautiful fine dining restaurants in the city serving a seasonal menu, specialty wines, hand made pastas and delectable deserts. Reservations are best made through opentable.com or by calling (513) 721-6200.
About iRhine
iRhine is a 501(c)3 non-profit organization that develops the focus of communication for the many diversified offerings in the historic Cincinnati neighborhood of Over-the-Rhine (OTR). Through the Web site, e-mails, educational meetings, events, and volunteering, iRhine has supported and encouraged socio-economic development for OTR and the Greater Cincinnati Region since 2000.
|
